Bedford & Co. The latest decorative statement in New York restaurants is a woodpile. Increasingly, chefs are installing wood-fired grills and ovens and, like John DeLucie in this new venture, putting stacks of split logs on display. And not just for show. “I saw this grill in Argentina,” he said of the wood-fueled contraption in his open kitchen. “I knew I had to have one.” He features wood-grilled dishes like oysters, lamb ribs, artichokes, beets and whole fish. This restaurant represents a fresh start for Mr. DeLucie, who the last few years has closed all his others, including Crown, the Lion and Bill’s Food & Drink, which he owned with partners. Bedford & Co., done in dark browns and olive green, is on two levels in the new Renwick hotel: (Opens Wednesday): 118 East 40th Street, 212-634-4040,bedfordandco.com.

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